Something strange happened to the Madam Mam’s on the Drag about a year ago: It started to suck. The change was overnight — suddenly the awkward but talented staff was replaced by crabby new people who seemed like they were lost.
The food, once something to die for, was becoming something you could die from. Twice, I wound up sleeping in the fetal position after ordering the masman curry with chicken (P13), my favorite dish.
After that, I stopped going to Mam’s and instead got my fix at Thai Kitchen on Guadalupe and Thai Passion on Congress. These restaurants are great, but there’s just something about the curry at Madam Mam’s. You know, this may sound funny, but driving by Mam’s multiple times late at night with my headlights off just to look inside and try to see something felt like the worst break-up I’ve ever had. She was my high-school “sweetheart.” Bought her a ring and everything, but she evidently didn’t want happiness. (Now she’s 29, pregnant with her fifth kid, and on hubby number three. Yeah, I know.)
Okay. Fast forward to early this summer when West Gate welcomed the new Madam Mam’s location, right around the time when I was having serious curry withdrawal symptoms. On my way to Central Market, I saw the glowing pink, Tiki-ish sign for Madam Mam’s. Was I going crazy? Did this place really exist? In South Austin? It was too good to be true.
I wasn’t even hungry, but I went in anyway. Inside the restaurant, which used to be a barbecue joint, is Mam2.0: Colorful decor, clean floors, enthusiastic waiters, tons of seating (comfy booths!), and even a host stand with floating candles.
There were some old, familiar faces inside, too: The owner as well as the sweet older woman who must certainly be Mam herself. Even the charmingly awkward waiters and water/chopstick gals were there.
Oh, and the masman curry! It was just how I remembered it. Absolutely perfect, with just the right amount of spice and a nice balance of potatoes, chicken, peanuts, and onions.
“Sweet Thai Jesus, you own me,” I moaned, leaning back in the booth as I finished my meal. And I meant that.
I’ve been back to the West Gate Madam Mam’s countless times since it opened, and I have yet to be let down. The only complaint I have is that the food tends to be brought out one plate at a time, which creates an uncomfortable situation when you’re dining with a group. I’m not sure that I’m willing to give the original Mam’s another try — the new one has been too good to me. Plus, the new one actually has a parking lot.
Bottom line In the Battle of the Mams, the West Gate location can’t be beat. It’s clean, fun, delicious, and run by the all-stars who brought the original to the top. As for the Drag location: Proceed with caution.
Tip If you’re out with a large group and plan to split up the check with more than two credit cards, Madam Mam’s won’t be too happy about that. Either bring cash, or let your waiter know that you’re cool with paying a fee for each card (it’s usually under $1 per card).
Comments
I’ve had that experience too!!! The best part about the Mam’s on Guad, is Will! Will! The best waiter in Austin!!!
Bring back my Mam’s.